Bra Fix for Better Side Coverage

Criss cross bra

I love these bras but, like a lot of bras, they do not sufficiently cover my side boob. Yes, I said boob because that is what I call the extra that escapes under my armpit. When I was young, I didn’t have this but as I aged, my little…er not so little…birdies drifted. I have found very few bras that address this issue. Even bras that are made for plus-sized women aka curvy women do not amply cover this area.

Side View

I ordered these bras and loved the way they fit everywhere but under the arm pit. Nothing looks worse that putting a shirt on and having and overflow over the side of the bra. It is noticeable. I notice it so I imagine other people do too. I thought there must be someone who has invented something to fix this or maybe a pattern online that I could download and sew onto my bras but I could not find anything so I started cutting out crescent shapes and looking in the mirror until I made the right shape. It was harder than I originally thought it would be.

Crescent shape

It is sloppy. I know but it worked for me. I had some white lycra and cut out four pieces.

Unfortunately, I didnt take photos of my process but plan to do this to a few more bras in the future so I will add photos when I get to those.

The first thing I did, after I swtiched my needle on my machine, was sew the upper part of the shape. I put two pieces together. There is no right or wrong side to the white lycra I used. I sewed it together. My feed dogs on my sewing machine are hungry beasts so any kind of stretch fabric gets eaten and shredded by them. I have tried using a walking foot but it still gets caught up in the feed dogs so I put paper underneath the fabric as I sew and just rip it away afterwards. Sometimes, this messes with my stitches but it worked for this.

I turned the sewn piece right side out and sewed the other edge closed. The raw edges looked ugly but who is going to inspect the inside of your bra? I really should have done a zigzag stitch to make it look better but I am lazy sometimes when it comes to things I do for myself. If this was for someone else, I would have made it look prettier.

I pinned it to the inside of the arm hole and sewed along the seam underneath the lace.

Sew onto bra

It looks weird on my dress form but fits me perfectly.

My Mother’s Day Outfit

I love skirts and dresses, especially in the Spring and Summer. Tiered skirts are easy and fun to make. You can mix and match just about any pattern and it will work. It doesn’t even have to match and it will still look cute.

I thought my Converse would look adorable with a tiered skirt and I wanted to just buy one but I’m a plus-sized gal so certain clothes are often hard to find or spendy so I just bought the fabric and made it.

I found the image on Etsy and bought it. I cut it on my Cricut, weeded it and pressed it on the shirt this morning (Mother’s Day). I know. I’m a procrastinator!

Making the skirt was easy. The formula for making a three tiered skirt is to measure your waist to your ankle or wherever you want the length. Mine is 32″. Add 2″ for the elastic casing, 1″ for seam allowances and 1″ for the hem so it’s 36″ in all. Divide that into 3 for the width of each panel. Each panel should be 12″ but since I wanted Eyelet lace on the bottom of mine, I had to do it differently. The eyelet lace was 6″ wide and SPENDY.

The length of each panel:

1st Tier – 1.5 x waist measurement

2nd Tier – 2 x waist measurement

3rd Tier 2.7 x waist length

The eyelet panel was already gathered so I had to cut that the same length as the 2nd panel. Thank the eyelet making fairies for that because, like I mentioned, it was expensive.

Sew each panel into a loop by folding it right sides together and sewing the ends together.

Gather the tops of the 2nd tier and third tier. I do this by using the longest stitch length and sewing around it twice. I don’t lock the first stitches. I then pull the top or bottom threads and start gathering until it is the length I need. Make sure the gsthers are evenly spread around.

Sew loop
Sew two loose seams

Pin the 2nd tier to the top tier right sides together and sew. Do the same for the third tier.

Sew 2nd tier to top tier

Make the casing for the elastic on top and pull your elastic inside. I use 1″ wide pajama elastic because it never rolls and it is super stretchy and comfortable. I cut it 2″ shorter than my waist measurement. I sew the ends together and then close the rest of the casing.

Hem the bottom and it’s done.

Eyelet lace

I definitely have to wear a lip because it’s super see-through but I liked how it turned out.

Whole Enchilada!

Homage to My Favorite Authors

I did this quilt to pay homage to some of my favorite authors and series. It was something I did for the pure enjoyment of doing. I usually make things for other people or something that serves a practical purpose if it is for myself.

If you have read any of my blogs, you probably noticed I try to get to the point or to the “how to” part  without making you read a ton of unimportant blither first. This one will be different because the process is important to me.

I read A LOT. It is my escape and helps my anxiety because it takes me to another world and lets me forget about my worries. My preferred genre is Fantasy, Historical Romance, Paranormal Romance and Science Fiction. I read biographies and other genres but those are few a far between. My love for books was the inspiration for this quilt.

This was a HUGE project!

I think I used every design principle that was known to me. I went to school for design. First, I went for a little over a year for Interior Design and then switched to Graphic Design for another year but never finished due to my severe anxiety. I learned a lot though and use what I learned in my art and my crafting.

The most important part of the design to me was to stay as true to the author’s book design as possible. I changed things up depending on my supply of fabric and vinyl.

Color played a big part in this design. I chose my fabric carefully.  I have a ton of fabric. Most of it is under a quarter yard, so basically scraps. I dug through it and tried to match it the best I could to the author’s cover. I also had to be mindful of the colors that would be next to it, both the words and the fabric. I admit that I had to by a little fabric. I had to buy black fabric with designs in order to make the bases for the 1001 Dark Nights books and zip grabbed some more blues and yellows.

Fonts were important. I found similar fonts to what each author used and messed with them until they looked right by stretching and condensing them. I even mixed several different fonts together to match the author’s font. I did okay for the most part.

Balance and unity was a must. I must have looked at hundreds of bookshelf quilts and they all had books of every height and width next to each other. It looks great but, in real life, my bookshelf was neat and all my books from a certain author were one height. I know! I know! I’m picky. It drives me insane to see messy bookshelves. Paperbacks are usually one size for novels, smaller for novellas and a little larger for special books of the series. I owned very few hardbacks because I couldn’t afford them. I think my leather bound copy of The Complete Works of Shakespeare was my favorite. I say “was” because I had to get rid of almost all of my books when I moved to a smaller house. I still have signed books, my Shakespeare and a few others. I really miss physical books but I have my e-reader. Wow! I really went off subject there. My point was that a lot of the books are the same size so it is a lot different from other bookshelf quilts in that regard.

Upcycled Box with Partition

Who else saves boxes with the intention of doing something really great with it?

My spice bottles came in this and I immediately knew I wanted it to organize all my reading glasses.

Cardboard box

It sat on my dresser for months. I finally decided to stop a huge project that I have been working on and work on this box because my blog was getting lonely.

I grabbed my duct tape and began.

Just some of my duct tape

I cut off the box flaps and then started taping.


The inside was a booger to do. Some of it ended up wrinkled.

I folded over the edge on the top.

Top Edge
Fold over top

I taped the insert thingy mcgoobers with white tape and cut the slits in it afterward.


It turned out okay. It had some wrinkles but I’m happy with it.

Finished box

Easy Sew Grocery Bag

Large Reusable Grocery Bag

My niece asked if I could sew her some reusable grocery bags. She didn’t like the ones you buy at the grocery store. I don’t blame her. They are thin and the handles constantly rip off. I decided to try making some that would hold up way better than store bought cheapies.

I found some checkered canvas on sale for $7.99 a yard so I grabbed it.

One bag takes quite a bit of fabric.

2 outer pieces at 20″ x 21″

2 inner pieces at 20″ x 21″

2 pieces the handles at 5″ x 22″

The 21″ is the height.

Optional – 7″ x 13″ iron-on stabilizer for the bottom.

I used a light canvas for the outside and handles and a quilter’s cotton for the inside. 

First, I washed and dried the fabric. Wouldn’t it be nice if fabric was already washed and dried before we purchased it? I swear I lose a few inches of fabric to shrinkage after washing it and then I have to iron it.

Cut the fabric.

Put the right sides together of the outer fabric and sew either a quarter inch or half inch seam along the bottom. I did a quarter inch but I think a half inch might have been easier because the next step is to iron the seam open.

Iron the seam open.

Iron seam open

Optional – Place the stabilizer, with the rough side down, centered onto the bottom so the seam is in the center and iron it on. I could not get it to stick all the way down no matter how much I tried with my iron so I ended up sewing it down on the sides. I was so annoyed by this that I forgot to take a photo.

Sew the sides closed.

The next part is tricky.  Fold the corners of the bottom on each side into triangles. They will measure about 3 ish inches.

Draw a line across and pin. If you used a stabilizer, the line is the outer edge of the stabilizer.

Sew over the line.

Stabilizer and corners

Cut the triangles off about a half inch from the seam.

Put the right sides together of the inner fabric and sew the sides and bottom.

The liner does not use a stabilizer so you will gave to measure the corners to match what you did on the bottom of the outer fabric. Mark it, pin it and sew it. Then cut the corners off.

Cut corner off

Fold under the top of both the liner and outer bag an inch and iron.

Make the handles

Iron the fabric for the handles lengthwise in half.

Unfold it and iron each side towards the middle and then fold it all in half.

Fabric for handles
Fold in half
Fold sides to middle fold

Sew down each side of each handle as close to the edge as possible.

Sew down each side

Measure 6″ in from each side of the inner bag and mark it. Pin the straps on the insides of the marks. Do this on the inside where the top is ironed under.

Pin on handles

Sew a square with an X on each side. It’s hard to see in the picture.

Square with X

Do the same with the other strap in the other side.

With wrong sides facing, put the inner bag inside the other. Pin around the top, matching seams.

Sew close to the edge all the way around. I sewed 1/8 inch and then did a zigzag stitch.

I think it turned out pretty well.

Finished bag

Non-Slip Hangers

I thought I had a great idea to make my hangers non-slip. I was going to glue the rubbery shelf liner onto my hangers with rubber cement but I discovered something better by accident.

I cut a piece of shelf liner and glued it onto one side of my hanger. I put rubber cement on the other side but became distracted with something else so I left it. A few hours later, the shelf liner hadn’t dried but the other side was dry and had the perfect texture to hold on my garments.

I decided to just use rubber cement by itself.

How easy is that? I just painted on rubber cement on each side of the hangers and let it dry. My shirts stayed put.

DIY Christmas Card with Window

Why buy a card for less than a dollar when you can spend a ton of money and time making your own?

Because I love handmade gifts and appreciate when someone goes through the effort to make a card.

Card making is something that I have never been able to do well but I am determined to improve.

I used my Cricut but I am sure you could just cut out the shapes if you don’t have one. I made the window frame on Inkscape with basic shapes.

Here’s what I used.

Cardstock – I think it all was 60lb (not sure where they get that weight) but I’m not really sure because it didn’t say on the package. I just guessed.

9″ x 5″ red, plaid or any color. I made a bunch of different colors. The cut out was centered on the right. It measures 2.83″ x 3.41″. The size was determined by the size of the window frame because it had to be the right size for it to be glued over it.

4″ x 3.37 blue for the scene. Again, this could be any blue or even black.

3.37″ x 3.82 White for the window frame.

Pieces of the card

After I cut the pieces out, I used a rubber stamp and white paint to stamp and then paint the scene.

Rubber stamp
Painted scene

I let it fry and glued it all together. I always get glue everywhere. No matter how much I try, I cannot keep the glue from making a mess. I have tried glue dots but that was a disaster.

I added some embellishments on front. I bought them at Michael’s.

Front of card

I printed out a snazzy saying on my printer and cut it to size. It probably would have looked better with a border.

Add a quote

I did a different spin on the card for my daughter and her two boys. They love the Sans and Papyrus characters so I put that as the creepy scene.

Papyrus and Sans

I find card making is a lot harder than it looks.

Dr. Seuss Scarf

This scarf has Cat in the Hat red and white stripes but the quote is from Horton Hears a Who.

This started out as a simple red and white scarf but then I learned in a Cricut group that infusible ink can be used on fleece so I had to add a Dr. Seuss quote.

Quote from Horton Hears a Who

Cut out 5 white strips 16″ x 6″.

Cut out 4 red strips 16″ x 6″.

Cut out 2 red strips 16″ x 8″ for ends (fringe).

I used my Cricut and wrote out the quote in four colors and then sent them to cut. This was the hardest and most frustrating part of this scarf. My Cricut has been acting weird lately so it wastes vinyl and infusible ink. Infusible ink sheets are expensive. I finally was able to get it all cut out and then I pressed the words onto the white fleece.

I sewed all the strips together, folded it lengthwise with the right sides facing each other and sewed the side closed.

I turned it inside out and sewed both ends closed. I sewed across each red end piece a quarter inch from the seam.

I cut one inch wide strips for fringe on the end red pieces.

Dr. Seuss Scarf

I think this is one of my favorite things I have ever made and it was simple to make.

Making Harry Potter Inspired Fleece Scarves

Years ago, I crocheted a Harry Potter scarf for one of my grandsons. He wore it until it started falling apart. He’s 13 now and still asks me to make him another one but I cannot get into crocheting lately so I decided to make one out of fleece instead. I decided to make Harry Potter themed scarves for three of my grandsons. The 13 year-old likes Gryffindor. The 14 (almost 15) year-old likes Slytherin and the 6 year-old has yet to get onto the series so he’s getting Hufflepuff. I wanted to do Ravenclaw but couldn’t find the colors at the fabric store.

I usually don’t do a list of materials because I fly by the seat of my pants when sewing and crafting and make it up as I go but this one is pretty simple.

* Polar Fleece in the colors you want to make the scarf. It can be any fleece, not just polar fleece. I bought mine at Joann Fabrics for $3.88 a yard. They call it blizzard fleece.

* Matching thread

* Some kind of ruler to use for measuring and cutting. I used my 9 1/2″ square ruler.

* A rotary cutter or scissors

* A sewing machine

* A sew-on patch (optional) I ordered four from Amazon. All four cost $16.99.

And, of course, the obligatory colorful words for when you mess up or poke yourself with a pin. Some of my favorites are “By Zeus’s Beard” and “Mother Jumper Cables”.

I started by cutting the selvage off of the fleece.

I want the width of the scarves to be between 7 and 8″ and it needs to be doubled over for a number of reasons. One, is to make it super warm. Two, is it will hide all the seams. Hmmm…I guess there are just two reasons. I cut the fleece 16″ wide. My widest ruler is 9 1/2″ so I folded the fabric over and cut it on the fold at 8″. When opened, it would measure 16 inches. I cut all the way down.

I bought a yard of each fabric except for the yellow which I bought a yard and a half so the strips ended up being 16″ by 36″ except the yellow which was longer.

Cut 16″ wide strips

The folded strips will look like this.

Folded strips

I cut out all the colors. I had to work on this while the 15 year-old was at school because he lives with me.

All the colors

Next, I had to cut the strips down to the individual stripes. I had to look at quite a few Harry Potter pictures to try to figure out the height of each stripe. I determined 5 1/2 inches looked about right so I cut the strips down into 6″ pieces. I kept the fleece folded over to make it easier. So they were 5 1/2″ tall by 16″ wide.

Scarves are typically 5 feet in length so doing the math, I figured I needed 5 of each color but I had to include fringe so this is how I cut them.


5 gold/yellow at 6″

4 maroon/reddish at 6″

There needs to be fringe so I cut two pieces (one for each end) 8″. I cut half inch strips 6 inches up.

2 marron/reddish at 8″ for the fringe at the end.

Cut stripes and end pieces for fringe

I did the same for the other scarves. For Hufflepuff, I used Black as the fringe and for Slytherin, I used green as the fringe.

Now, sew the strips together right sides together Start with the fringe piece and alternate colors. End with the other fringe piece.

Fold it in half lengthways so the messy seams are on the outside. Match each stripe and pin then sew down the length to where the fringe will be.

Turn right side out and topstitch down each side and a little above where the fringe will be which will close that end.

Cut fringe to about a half inch to the seam.

Place the house emblem somewhere near the bottom and it’s finished.

Harry Potter House Scarves

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